The Chateau Rayas 1988 has a very funky, rather bretty nose at first with mushroom, black truffle, a hint of wild mint coming through, complemented by more garrigues aromas with time. It takes time to settle: too bucolic at first but far more engaging after an hour in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with that fresh minty tang on the entry, very fine tannins considering how rustic the aromatics began but coalescing and finding its rhythm with aeration. Warm alcohol cloaks the finish: engaging and multi-dimensional. Whilst Bonneau's Celestins '99 (served alongside) showed more refinement, this was just getting better and better in the glass. Drink now-2020. Tasted June 2010.